INSIDER’S Q&A – with Mr Graham Grant, GM at the Leela Palace Udaipur

To provide a local perspective on some of our favourite destinations Ampersand is doing a new series of Q&A Blogs with some of our special contacts on the ground who will be sharing their insider tips on their location.

Here at Ampersand we absolutely adore India’s Leela Palaces. Over the last decade we feel it has emerged as the rising star of the luxury Indian hotel brands, perfect for guests who are looking for an opulent and uplifting experience that is fit for a modern day princess or princess. There are now Leela Palace properties in Udaipur, New Delhi, Bangalore and Chennai, plus a highly anticipated Leela Palace Agra due to open in 2014, splendidly located near the Taj Mahal.

Sharing his insights with us this time is Mr Graham Grant, the General Manager of the utterly gorgeous Leela Palace Udaipur.

I’m new here. Please tell me something interesting about The Leela Palace Udaipur…
There are 270 Elephants (a symbol of purity and prosperity) in silver, wood, metal, stone and print drawn across the property and the hotel also features a 150 year old Shiva Temple on the premises. Without exception, every room at the Palace offers a lake view or lake and heritage view. There is no better location than the Leela Palace to visually appreciate Lake and City Palace Heritage sites. ESPA is the only lakeside tented luxury spa in the country with plunge pools and open air treatment facilities. 

I’d like to try something off-the-beaten track here – what do you recommend?
A ½ day trip to Delwara, a local village that has been engaged with wonderful NGO work by Seva Mandir. Meet local residents, visit historic Jain temples and see the practical day to day life of a village community.

Which attraction should I definitely make time to see?
The City Palace – best reached by The Leela’s own tuk-tuk, which winds through charming old city lanes to arrive for a 1-2 hour Palace excursion. This will be 3 hours very well spent capturing Udaipur’s heritage.

Which of the “must-visit” attractions should I avoid?
Monsoon Palace; there is no need to visit as it can be captured best in evening from The Leela grounds.

I’d like to buy an unusual souvenir – what do you recommend?
Buy a miniature painting by local artists.

Where can I take the best picture of City Place, Lake Palace, Jag Mandir, Lake Pichola and the Aravali Mountains?
From any Leela Palace hotel room! 

I’d like to explore the surrounding area. Is there a particular day trip you’d recommend?
Explore Ranakpur Temple and Kumbhalgarh Fort on a full day tour.

I’m going to propose to my partner while I’m here – where should I do it?
On a sunset cruise in the middle of Lake Pichola or at Spa Alcove’s exclusive destination dining. 

What’s the best restaurant in the city right now?
Sheesh Mahal offers fine Indian dining on the bank of Lake Pichola with majestic views in the foreground of Lake Palace and the City Palace beyond.

And where’s best for drinks?
Library Bar at The Leela Palace Udaipur.

Are there any cultural events or exhibits I should see while I’m here?
There are Cultural Folk Dances every evening at The Leela Palace Udaipur between from 7:40 pm to 8:45 pm and the City Palace has a sound and light show in the evenings. 

Thanks for your help. Should I tip at The Leela Palace Udaipur?
It is certainly not expected, but if you wish to tip you may leave it at check-out as tips are distributed fairly to all staff.

We would like to thank Graham for his tips on Udaipur! If you are interested in visiting for yourself, please speak to our India sales consultant, Catriona Deredas on +44 (0)207 819 8905. Catriona recently stayed at Leela Palace Udaipur and has this to say about it:

The Leela Palace Udaipur is a fabulous hotel with sensational rooms overlooking the lake and the famous Taj Lake Palace. The pool service here is second to none with a constant replenishment of ice cold water and towels, with frozen fruit treats and fresh sorbet. The Leela Palaces have uber luxury and decadence down to a fine art… I could not be more in love with the Leela Palace brand.

South India photoblog: Hyderabad & the Taj Falaknuma Palace

After 16 unforgettable days revisiting South India, Catriona and I are now back at our desks in London, but we have one final destination to tell you about. It was the crowning jewel in our itinerary and the most magnificent place to end any journey to India: The Taj Falaknuma Palace in Hyderabad.

This time last year we were doing a grand two-week research trip across North India – from Delhi to Agra, Ranthambore, Jodhpur, Jaipur and Udaipur. There is no denying that Ampersand’s primary focus in India is Rajasthan; the quality of luxury hotels and service in this region is unrivalled anywhere in the world. However, not many people know that South India is where it all began for Ampersand and this year we are eager to promote it to our clients, who we know will gain so much from visiting. For those who have been reading our South India Photoblogs, you will know that after a cold and seemingly endless UK winter, we have loved getting our feet into some warm Keralan sand, drifting slowly along the Backwaters, gulping down some tea-scented mountain air and drenching ourselves in culture at intoxicating temples and archaeological sites.

North and South India are very different, but what is it that distinguishes them? Some say the south is slower, more relaxed. What sums up the south for me is the incredible seafood curries, the ever-present smell of jasmine flowers, the astonishing natural beauty of Kerala and the impressive gopuram temples of Tamil Nadu – so exotic, so Indian! Our Hyderabad guide, Jonti, had an interesting theory. Historically, the northern half of India has been hugely influenced by Persia in terms of food, religion, ethnicity and Mughal architecture; it has had a more violent history and it has needed to fight for survival against invasion. By contrast, the south’s history was more about the trade of spices and its influences were relatively peaceful, so it had the luxury of nurturing its traditional arts and crafts, and preserving its Dravidian roots. The people of South India are known to be well cultured and so laid-back that they slip naturally into hammock position.

Hyderabad is the capital city of the central Indian state of Andhra Pradesh and it is often referred to as “the gateway to the South”. It feels like a blend of both north and south India, yet it retains a distinct personality of its own. Now a very modern and  metropolitan city, it was founded 400 years ago by Muhammad Qutub Quli Shah, the Sultan of Golconda, and is famous for its Islamic architecture, art and jewellery – pearls and diamonds in particular (in the 16th Century Hyderabad was the world’s only source of diamonds; they were not discovered in Africa until 1867). In recent decades it has emerged as one of India’s most exciting IT hubs, hence its nickname, ‘Cyberabad’. It has an impressive new international airport with direct British Airways flights to London. Within Hyderabad’s city limits you can explore ancient bazaars, the monumental Qutab Shahi Tombs, the impenetrable Golconda Fort and follow in the footsteps of Lieutenant James Kirkpatrick, whose story is told by William Dalrymple in the White Mughuls.

However, the event that put Hyderabad firmly on the luxury travel map was the opening of the Taj Falaknuma Palace in 2010. It is now the forth time an Ampersand member of staff has stayed here and we believe it is the most exceptional palace hotel in India, if not the world. The palace, constructed in the late 19th Century, has a fascinating history: It was built by Nawab Vikar-Umra, the then-Prime Minister of Hyderabad, and was “gifted” to the sixth Nizam of Hyderabad, Mahboob Ali Pasha, after he visited the palace and expressed a fondness for it. The palace was then passed down from Nizam to Nizam, playing host to heads of states and European royalty until the palace parties fell silent after the 1950s when the Nizam moved to his abode next door.

It was not until 2000 that Princess Ezra – the current Nizam’s first wife – began the process of supervising the Taj restoration of the palace, spending over 10 years making every element as true to its original form as possible. The palace is dripping in Venetian chandeliers and masterful paintings, and lavishly decorated with the Nizam’s original furniture, including the world’s longest dining table in the formal dining room upstairs. The last Nizam to reside here was Nizam Mehboob Ali Khan, who was the richest man in the world at that time. Guests are immediately transported back to his royal era, filled with opulence and pampering… starting with a fairytale arrival at the palace in an open carriage pulled by two gleaming white horses! And the impeccable service carries on surprising and delighting you until the moment you leave – there are 240 staff to 120 guests and each and every one of them go the extra mile to make you feel like prince or princess during your stay here.

Where else can one retrace the steps of Nizams, European royalty, enchanting Begums, distinguished heads of state and walk the walk of kings staying in one of India’s most beautiful palaces perched 2,000 feet above the city? For those who can drag themselves away from the palace, we have excellent guides in Hyderabad who will engage with you and allow you to get under the skin of this vibrant city. Here are a few snaps from our time here…

In the west of Hyderabad, Golconda Fort has stood strategically at the top of a large granite hill since the 13th Century. It is famous for being virtually impenetrable – it kept out Mughal invaders from the north until 1687 and was only conquered due to insider treachery

Golconda Fort is one of the biggest fortresses in the Deccan Plateau, once famed for its diamond mines from which the Kohinoor diamond of the British Crown was mined. These extensive ruins bear witness to the engineering genius of the Qutub Shahi architects

At the upper part of the fort is Ibrahim’s Mosque… admiring it up close is a great reward for hiking up to the crown of the hill

Qutub Shahi Tombs are the last resting place of Qutub Shah dynasty. Surrounded by well-maintained gardens, the tombs are remarkable in their uniformity of design, each crowned by onion-shaped dome

Qutub Shahi Tombs

The seat of the Asaf Jahi dynasty, the magnificent Chowmahalla Palace was built over 200-years ago for the Nizams to use when entertaining their official guests and royal visitors. Completed by Nizam Afzar-ud-Dawla Bahadur in 1869 but initiated by Nizam Salabhat Jung, the Palace took over 100 years to complete

The pillared Durbar Hall at Chowmahalla Palace has a pure marble platform on which the royal seat was laid – a lavish place for celebrations and ceremonies. 19 spectacular Belgian chandeliers have been reinstalled to recreate the lost splendour of this regal hall

The entrance to the Taj Falaknuma Palace

We cannot even begin to describe how magical the white horse and carriage arrival at Taj Falaknuma Palace is, but do click on this video to get a better idea!

Taj Falaknuma Palace: a real-life fairytale!

Suites set around harem section of the palace, where the Nizam would once have housed a harem of over 100 women

The Grand Presidential Suite at the Taj Falaknuma Palace

The Falaknuma’s cool and curvaceous swimming pool is set next to a lovely banyan tree, complete with over-water bridges and a rock waterfall

The beautifully tiled terrace outside the Jade Room – the ideal High Tea venue

Hyderabad city stretches out beneath you and atmospheric sounds drifts up to the palace during Muslim prayers

The impressive facade of the palace, which was built in the shape of a scorpion with two stings spread out as wings in the north

The pale blue reception hall which welcomes you as you step inside the palace with frescoed ceilings and gilded reliefs

The grand marbled staircase with carved balustrades, figurines and candelabras

The stunning courtyard which links the main palace building to the Italian and Indian restaurant in the Gol Bungalow at other end, with the Palace rooms situated along the edges of the courtyard

Live sufi music is performed at the Gol bungalow at dusk every evening overlooking the twinkling lights of the city. This group were absolutely phenomenal!

So there you have it! The perfect end to our trip. If you have any questions about Hyderabad or any of the places we visited in South India you can contact me, Sacha Smith-Laing at sacha@ampersandtravel.com or to start planning a tailor-made journey please contact our India sales specialist, Catriona Deredas at catriona@ampersandtravel.com.

South India photoblog: From Kerala’s Backwaters to old colonial Cochin

In Kerala we journeyed from the Backwaters of Kumarakom and Alleppey to the palm-fringed beaches of Marari, and ended at the colonial heritage city of Cochin, home to Portuguese, Dutch, Arabic and British traders at various times in its history. We have inspected all the good hotels in the region (43 hotels at our last count since arriving in South India) and eaten many delicious seafood curries. Here are a few photos of our Keralan adventure…

The quirky turquoise houseboat at Privacy, part of the Malabar Escapes group of properties, set in a secluded spot on Lake Vembanad

Lake view swimming pool at Privacy

There are thousands of kettuvallom houseboats (rice barges) in the Backwaters and they are the perfect vessels to explore these interconnected canals, rivers and lakes as a half day activity. Some people feel they want a few nights sleeping on a traditional houseboat, but once night falls you cannot see your surroundings and the reality of it is often less romantic than assumed

You will see ladies washing clothes in the river, children playing and couples fishing outside their homes. Life has changed little here through the ages and it is extremely idyllic and peaceful

Can you spot the kingfisher? The backwater’s lush landscape attracts a huge variety of birds – from egrets, terns, kingfishers, darters, cormorants and other migratory birds

Sit back, unwind and observe local life playing out as you drift by waterfront churches, temples and villages

Lunch on board the houseboat is freshly prepared by a fantastic cook

The kitchen is small but the feast was immense! It was utterly delicious

The sun falls over Lake Vembanad. In the distance you can see what are known as Chinese fishing nets, which have become ubiquitous with the Malabar coast

The ‘Meandering Pool Villas’ at Kumarakom Lake Resort where you can step straight from your villa into a curvaceous, 250-metre long swimming pool

Marari Beach Resort is the perfect place to kick off your shoes and relax with your feet in the sand. It’s very sweet and simple, and we consistently get glowing feedback from our clients who stay here

Ultra luxury arrives in the Backwaters in the form of Carnoustie Beach Resort & Ayurveda Spa on Marari Beach. It is a brand new property with forty villas of exceptional quality, each with their own pool, lavish bathrooms and a spot-on fusion of contemporary luxury and traditional Kerala architecture

At a Kathakali performance in Cochin. Arrive half and hour before it begins to watch the performers preparing their make-up on stage

Kathakali is a classic Indian dance-drama originating in Kerala, known for its elaborate costumes, make up and emotive facial expressions

A trading port since Roman times, Cochin is a fascinating yet supremely relaxed city. It has an atmospheric colonial vibe and a slow seaside pace – particularly the Old Town, where most of the hotels are. ‘Jew Town’ is an area of the Old Town with a mix of old shops, warehouses, spice auction rooms and a beautiful Jewish synagogue

Fresh catch straight off the boat at Cochin harbour

The Old Harbour Hotel in Cochin is a charming boutique hotel, set in a 300-year old building built in the Dutch style of architecture with hints of Portuguese influence

Handmade tiles and traditional Keralan carvings at Chittoor Kottaram. The house was originally built by the Rajah of Cochin, Rama Verma, and is now run as a boutique CGH property sleeping 6 people for exclusive use

Hello breakfast! Brunton’s Boatyard serve a mean Masala Dosa. The hotel itself is excellent, too – a Cochin favourite of ours, set right on the harbour

Next and final stop on our South India research tour: Hyderabad, to stay at the Taj Falaknuma Palace…

South India photoblog: Dindigul, Madurai and Munnar

Follow us as we continue our journey through South India; this time from the fresh and fertile countryside of Dindigul, to the cultural hub of Madurai and into ‘God’s own country’, Kerala, to the emerald green mountains of Munnar, carpeted with tea fields.

It is always exciting when you find a new secret gem, and discoveries don’t come more delightful than this one in Dindigul… Opened in October 2012, Rajakkad Estate is an intimate garden hotel with 7 unique bedrooms within an 18th century wooden structure, which was built in the Keralan style with thousands of interlocking beams, panels and screens

The Rajakkad mansion has been re-assembled here at an elevation of 1000 metres above sea level deep within the Palani Hills in Tamil Nadu

Rajakkad’s rooms are set around a pattern of courtyards and pools

Rajakkad’s building style is traditional and refined, with pretty interior decorations using splashes of colour. Each of the bedrooms leads directly out into the garden, so you can always see this outdoor paradise, a few small steps from your bed

Twinkly lights in the bathroom at Rajakkad

The main living room at Rajakkad is decorated with original antiques as well as contemporary furnishings

Rajakkad’s 45 acre estate is bursting with agricultural life; cows wander through the forest, which is made up of coffee, cotton and pepper plantations, papaya trees, jackfruit trees and colourful flowers

Thirumalai Nayak Mahal Palace in Madurai was built in 1636 by King Thirumalai Nayak with the help of an Italian Architect. It is a breathtaking blend of Dravidian and Islamic styles with a sense of Italian flair and extravagance

The palace is a magnificent example of Indo-saracenic style, with incredibly impressive stucco work on its soaring domes and arches

The ceilings of the palace are decorated with beautiful paintings… apparently many Indian carpet makers have come here for inspiration

The palace has 248 pillars which are 58 feet tall and 5 feet in diameter

The Dance Hall at Thirumalai Nayak Mahal

Floor decorations being drawn outside the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai. Photography is currently forbidden inside the temple but take our word for it: it is one of the most beautiful in India!

Night falls over Meenakshi Temple but she remains Madurai’s centrepiece, towering high with little lights

The start of the Chithirai Festival outside the Meenakshi Temple. Madurai is known as the city of festivals, and this one occurs every April to re-enact the wedding of Lord Shiva and Goddess Meenakshi, Lord Vishnu’s sister. Click on the image above to watch the video or click here to watch the festival in full swing!

An ancient legend unfolds at the Chithirai Festival as Lord Vishnu rides to his sister’s wedding on gleaming real-gold horse chariot

Windemere Estate in Munnar is a charming 15 bedroom property perched on a hilltop surrounded by a working cardamom estate – the perfect antidote after the excitement of the Chithirai Festival! It is cool up at this elevation, hence the cosy fireplaces to warm up next to in winter… a blissful welcome to the state of Kerala after saying goodbye to Tamil Nadu

Munnar’s hills are carpeted with tea plantations

Another great new find: Talayar Valley Bungalow in Munnar. Open since October 2012, it is an original bungalow with four suites built for a British plantation manager. Anyone who has experienced Sri Lanka’s Ceylon Tea Trails will no doubt love this. Talayar plan to offer tea excursions where you can learn to pluck tea from the field and operate the machinery in the tea factory. We’re sure you’ll get a cup of tea at the end of it, too!

Next stops on our tour of South India: Kanam, Kumarakom and Alleppey (The Backwaters), and the colonial port city of Cochin…

South India photoblog: Tanjore, Trichy and Chettinad

We have a few more photos of our tour of South India to share with you, this time taking in Tanjore, Trichy and Chettinad. We hope this gives you a flavour of Tamil Nadu’s fantastically rich culture. The number of exotic, often UNESCO-protected temples in this region is truly remarkable – including the magnificent Chidambaram, Brihadeeshwara and Darasuram temples.

In a few short days we’ve been lucky enough to experience Tamil New Year, Puthandu, as well as some atmospheric local festivals, specialist local craft workshops, such as the famous tile making of Atthangudi, and the gorgeous ancestral mansions of Chettinad, which are packed with imported period furniture, chandeliers, curios and paintings. Southern India’s ancient tapestry hides many cultural treasures off the beaten track. The Chettiars were and are prosperous traders with a far-flung diaspora, stretching away to Vietnam, Singapore and Malaysia – but their roots are here, in the age old dust of Chettinad, deep in Tamil Nadu’s interior.

Darasuram Temple

Along the edges of the main Darasuram Temple structure you will find these shallow ponds which would once have been filled with water and lined with oil flames in each of the exterior circles – it must have been a magnificent sight!

Beautiful stone carvings at Darasuram Temple bring this ancient site to life

This pregnant carved figure at the Darasuram Temple is a manifestation of Lord Shiva who is showing his people the correct position for childbirth

Ancient warfare depicted in the intricate wall carvings at Darasuram Temple. The creature above them is Yali, a mythological animal to keep away evil, who has the face of a lion, the body of a sea horse, the trunk of an elephant and the tail of a bull

Priests at Amma Mandapam in Trichy. Three horizontal lines of holy ash on the forehead represents devotion to Lord Shiva, whereas three vertical lines represents devotion to Lord Vishnu

Streetside masala chai stall… Click here to watch the video!

Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, Srirangam, Trichy

The ubiquitous Ambassador car parked outside the Vellai gopura at Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple

Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple

The smell of jasmine is all around you in South India – most of the ladies tie strings of these little flowers in their hair and a wonderfully sweet smell pervades the air when they waft past

We stopped at Attangudi to see the production of their famous handmade tiles

The steady hand of the talented tile makers of Attangudi

These tiles were made in front of us in a matter of minutes; they are then dried out in the baking sun for a few days and voila… no need for a kiln!

Visalam Hotel near Karaikudi village in Chettinad is a beautiful art deco mansion restored to its former glory by CGH Earth

The chilled-out living room at Visalam Hotel

A treasure-trove of junk and gems at the Karaikudi antiques market, which is completely jam packed with original pieces sourced from the hundreds of old mansions in Chettinad

Stunning architecture at an ancestral house in Karaikudi, Chettindad. This is the home of the owner of Bangala Hotel

A living slice of Chettinad history – we were honoured to be shown around this splendid home, furnished entirely with antique pieces and original tiles

The jaw-droppingly atmospheric main hall of the mansion

Next stops on our tour: Dindigul, Madurai and Munnar…

Photoblog: On the road in Tamil Nadu

“Vanakkam” and hello from Ampersand’s marketing manager, Sacha, and India sales consultant, Catriona! We hope you enjoy this photo tour of the first 3 days of our research tour of balmy South India. We flew into Chennai and have travelled to Mahabalipuram and down the coast to the picture postcard town of Pondicherry. Keep your eyes on this blog and Facebook – we have got another 13 days out here and will be updating you with our discoveries, photos and videos.

San Thome Basilica, Chennai

Trademark Leela glitz and glamour at the newly opened Leela Palace Chennai

Beautiful bedrooms at the Leela Palace Chennai

Dreamy beach panoramas from the Leela Palace Chennai

The swimming pool at the Leela Palace Chennai

Taj Fisherman’s Cove hotel

Morning beach walk at Taj Fisherman’s Cove

The welcoming port city of Mahabalipuram, famous for its carved granite temples

A stone wall carving at Mahabalipuram portraying a classic pastoral scene

The Five Rathas of Mahabalipuram. (Click here to view a video of local school kids coming over to say hello)

The famous Shore Temple of Mahabalipuram

Maison Perumal hotel in Pondicherry is a serene haven from which to sight-see

Drenched in Franco-Tamil heritage, the riad-style courtyard layout of Maison Perumal keeps it cool and quiet

Natural hues and chic furnishings at Maison Perumal

Fresh and tasty fish curry at Maison Perumal

The brand new Palais de Mahe, the second CGH Earth property in Pondicherry, along with Maison Perumal

Lovely light-filled lobby at Palais de Mahe

Late afternoon stroll along Pondicherry promenade

Vibrant stalls pop up along Pondicherry beach

Pondicherry beach fruit cart

Pondicherry snacks

Pondicherry

Faded seaside charm in Pondicherry

Mahatma Gandhi statue at the heart of the Pondicherry promenade

We were totally enchanted by the colours and French colonial architecture of Pondicherry

Pondicherry is a very laid-back and safe town to stroll for hours through sun-dappled streets shaded by big trees

Nuns walking through Pondicherry

At the Manakula Vinayagar Temple in Pondicherry, the resident elephant, Lakshmi welcomes you with a blessing (in return for a little snack and some rupees)

Flower and necklace stall outside the Manakula Vinayagar Temple, Pondicherry

Is this France or India, you ask? Le Foyer du Soldat in Pondicherry is a legion hall for Indian soldiers who served in French wars

Next stops on the tour: Tanjore, Trichy and Chettinad! 

THE BEST FAMILY HOLIDAYS IN THE UK – our pick of the best places to stay with children in England and Scotland

Chewton Glen, New Forest, Hampshire:

Endless grounds, two swimming pools, a nearby beach and inhabitable tree houses make this New Forest hotel a firm family favourite. Chewton Glen has a wonderful country house feel but is easily accessibly from London and its airports. Families are made to feel incredibly welcome; at Easter there is an egg hunt in the garden and outdoor activities are endless – from croquet, tennis, pony treks and kite flying. Rooms in the main house are named after characters from well-known children’s book ‘Animals of the New Forest’. In addition to a large indoor pool, there is an outdoor pool located in a delightful suntrap, meaning that watchful parents can while a way a few hours in the sun while happy children splash away. After all that, if you still feel like exploring, Pepper Pig World and Monkey World are a short drive away. In terms of accommodation, the Chewton Glen tree houses are really one of a kind; tucked away down a forest path, all of the suites look out over the woods below. Different suites cater to varying group sizes and family tree houses have bedrooms reached via a stepladder while mummy and daddy sleep downstairs. These rooms come with toy trunks absolutely full to the brim, meaning that rain or shine, kids will be very content!

Gleneagles, Perthshire, Scotland:

It would be a struggle to find a hotel that is better suited to family holidays than Gleneagles in Perthshire. From the moment you arrive at the hotel’s dedicated train station, with its slightly Harry Potter-esque feel, children are made to feel like royalty. As well as its obvious golfing credentials – Gleneagles will play host to the Ryder Cup in 2014 – this rural retreat is absolutely bursting with fun activities, facilities and day-care that will delight parents with young children. For those with young babies, there are mother and baby bonding sessions in one of the hotel’s many pools, a playroom bursting with Heuristic toys and expansive kitchen facilities. For toddlers there are swimming lessons, rides on Shetland ponies and even putting classes, if you’re keen to get your child on the green early. When staying at Gleneagles on school holidays, children are able to take part in seasonal picnics, tea parties and a range of classes from ‘spy school’ to pond dipping. For parents keen to have a bit of time to themselves the playroom offers 2 hours of complimentary fun for all your children, who will be safe in the hands of qualified staff. Sandpits, vast toy-boxes, dressing up trunks and craft activities will keep them occupied! For slightly older children and teenagers, Gleneagles takes some beating. There is golf (children can play for free if parents are playing), as well as off-road cars to drive, tennis courts, swimming pools, horse riding and grooming. Oh, and there is also gun-dog training, falconry, ice-skating, fishing, bicycling and much, much more! If you want to train up your offspring to be real country gentlemen, Gleneagles’ ‘Children’s Country Sports Passport’ package is perfect. Guiding your children through a range of classic Scottish activities, by the end of your stay there won’t be much they don’t know! Dining is also completely family-friendly; rather than be made to feel like unwanted outsiders (as might be the case in slightly snootier hotels), the vast food hall with Deseo restaurant and Braid’s Coffee Lounge, couldn’t be better suited to large and loud playful groups.

Le Manoir, Oxfordshire:

Although at first glance this Michelin-starred Raymond Blanc-run hotel appears adult-only, Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons is well suited to cultured young whippersnappers. As well as the hotel’s beautiful rooms and suites, the country manor boasts large grounds, Japanese gardens and a two-acre kitchen garden, meaning that children will have plenty of space to run around after a delicious meal at the restaurant. Open to both adults and children, the on-site Raymond Blanc Cookery School offers a range of fun classes, sometimes hosted by the man himself. To make the experience that bit more accessible for younger guests, the school puts on exclusive classes that have been specially devised by Raymond Blanc to introduce and inspire budding young chefs to the world of haute-cuisine. Classes are available as kids-only classes, or can be set-up so that parents and children can take the courses together – all are offered for children as young as seven. Depending on your age groups young chefs will be instructed on how to prepare anything from caramelized banana soufflé, fresh pesto, fish pie, floating islands and fresh fruit smoothies. The day package includes tuition, morning and afternoon snacks and tea, an informal lunch and a certificate to take away with you at the end of the day. Le Manoir also puts together a ‘Family Escape’ package, which is available for certain half-term or school holiday breaks. Children under 12 years old stay free (with breakfast) and while adults indulge in a six course seasonal dinner for adults, younger guests will be able to enjoy complimentary dining from the Children’s menu. If you’re coming with babies, don’t fret: all baby purees provided are organic.

Coworth Park, Berkshire:

Finding a hotel that is more perfect for children than Coworth Park is a difficult task. Absolutely everything about this luxurious country-house retreat makes it a family holiday heaven. Strategically located less than an hour from central London, Coworth Park is easy driving distance from some of the UK’s best amusement parks; Legoland, Chessington World of Adventures, Thorpe Park and Windsor Great Park (home to the castle) is practically next door if you fancy a horse-drawn buggy ride. The amount of creative activities put on by the hotel’s supervised kids’ club takes some beating; children can bake cookies, go horse riding, feed the ducks, compete in a mini Olympics, carve wooden dinosaurs, design butterfly wands, paint t-shirts, partake in estate-wide treasure hunts, play tennis, croquet and computer games or go swimming in the indoor pool. A qualified crèche takes care of youngsters and babysitting is widely available if Mummy and Daddy just can’t tear themselves away from the eco-luxury award-winning spa. While children under four eat completely free, older kids are spoilt rotten with a delicious specially designed children’s menu (the strawberry mousse is delicious!) that you eat on equestrian-themed crockery inline with Coworth’s love of all things ‘horsy’ (including Polo). The Barn, a short walk from the main house, surrounded by stables and cottages is the perfect place for relaxed family dining. It has an informal homely atmosphere with open fireplaces and al fresco dining in summer; no one will bat an eyelid if the kids make a mess. Coworth Park has recently launched its own Pony Club Centre where children can enjoy themselves while training for badges and certificates. Their yearly Summer Camp boasts a professional photographer, feet painting, pony grooming, riding lessons, treasure hunts and obstacle courses.

Four Seasons Hampshire:

It is rarely the case that you can arrive at a hotel and check your children into a complimentary on-site kids’ club. The Four Seasons Hampshire, an hour’s drive from London, is a country retreat where children will want to return again and again. The ‘Hampshire Kids For All Seasons’ programme means that parents can enjoy their downtime while children make news friends and partake in an array of activities on any weekend, bank holiday or school break. As well as board games and craft making, story-time, kite-flying and treasure hunts, Four Seasons Hampshire boasts an impressive Equestrian Centre tucked away by the lake on the hotel’s vast grounds. The ‘Own a Pony Day’ has all the ingredients to make horse fans very happy indeed; over the course of a day you’ll learn how to care for your very own pony, and obviously get the chance to ride it. If it’s just good old fashioned exploring that your children are interested in, they will be in for a treat when they see this outdoor playground and the front desk will happily hand over as many pairs of Hunter wellies as you need, in whatever size. Outdoor activities are available catering to both adults and children; try your hand at fishing, croquet, clay pigeon shooting or falconry, or if you feel like venturing further afield, take a cruise on a canal boat down at the nearby Basingstoke Canal.

Lucknam Park, near Bath:

Located just outside Bath in the rolling countryside, Lucknam Park is a beautiful period mansion set on a large estate. Surrounded by beautiful grounds and boasting its own Equestrian Centre, this hotel has masses to offer families. Outdoor activities include a gigantic adventure play area with rocking horses and swings, all weather tennis courts (with private tennis coaching), pony rides and escorted family hacks, a football pitch, clay pigeon shooting, go-carts, bikes and scooters to ride. If the weather isn’t on its best behaviour then worry not, Lucknam Park’s indoor offerings are just as good! From board games and DVDs to a 20-metre swimming pool and a brand spanking new cookery school with special children’s classes, there is plenty to keep kids occupied. As you would expect there are plenty of interconnecting rooms and bed and cots are always available. If you fancy paying a visit to The Park – Lucknam Park’s Michelin-starred restaurant – then baby-sitting is easily organised through the front desk. When eating with the kids themselves, The Brasserie, a garden-facing all day dining restaurant is relaxed and informal, and has a great kiddies’ menu. For children who fancy trying a stint in the kitchen themselves, Lucknam Park’s half day kids-only cookery courses are fantastic. As well as introducing children to the basics (think pizzas, pies, cookies and cakes) there is also the opportunity to learn how to make ice-creams and sorbets. At the end of the course, cookery books and goody bags are handed out as a reminder of a special day.

The Balmoral, Edinburgh, Scotland:

Nowhere in Edinburgh is more welcoming to families and younger guests than the iconic Balmoral Hotel. Perfectly located at the end of Princes Street, overlooking Edinburgh Castle, Scott’s Monument and Prince’s Street Gardens, The Balmoral has a wide range of programmes, whatever the age of visiting guests. If staying with babies the hotel will provide luxurious cots with super soft linen, bottle warmers, sterilisers, milk on turndown, baby baths, nappies and nappy mats, toys and a teddy to take home; nothing is forgotten! Younger children benefit from the hotel’s fun ‘Five-Star Kids’ programme; on arrival kids receive a check-in card that gives them access to everything from Balmoral bath ducks, teddy turndowns, customised bathrobes and slippers and a VIP gift on arrival. The hotel’s spa offers ‘Girlie’ manicures to young teens and the indoor swimming pool is perfect for rainy days; that is if they have already completed the Balmoral hotel customised quiz. In celebration of Disney’s recently released Scottish-themed ‘Brave’, The Balmoral now offers the ‘Mythical Family Affair’ package which includes fast-track entry to Edinburgh Castle, Brave welcome gifts and gingerbread treats.

The Ritz, London:

From its well-known grand belle-époque exterior and gilded Palm Court, the Ritz doesn’t seem like an obvious place for families. However, with the introduction of the impressive ‘Kidz @ The Ritz’ private members club, the Ritz is actually one of the best places to stay in London with children if you aren’t willing to compromise on luxury. Whether you’re staying with young children or teenagers, the Ritz has something guaranteed to make their stay feel special. From the moment children check in they’ll be presented with a welcome gift, and the presents don’t stop there; every evening they’ll be the lucky recipient of a turndown treat. Check-in also provides kids with time to meet their ‘Teen Concierge’ who will be able to help their every wish come true while staying in London. Under 16s stay free in an adult’s room; interconnecting rooms are a plenty and extra beds or baby cots can be brought in, no problem whatsoever. Children eat free at breakfast and can indulge to their heart’s content on complimentary ice-cream when dining at The Palm Court or The Restaurant – but make sure to remember to flash your member’s card. If parents feel like taking a well-earned break, the hotel offers baby sitting on demand and Wii or Playstation consoles in the rooms (as well as a good range of books and DVDs). They can also dine in-room with dedicated children’s room service. If this wasn’t enough to tempt families to the capital, The Ritz boasts a fantastic location for exploring London. Green Park is on your doorstep – literally, this is the only hotel in London that borders a Royal Park – and Hyde Park isn’t far away for those looking to stretch little legs. The Ritz is also a brilliant hotel to stay at throughout the Christmas period; as well as having beautifully decorated trees and festive garlands to get them in the spirit, children get spoilt with extra presents and an indulgent Christmas dinner.

51 Buckingham Gate, London:

Located mere minutes by foot from Buckingham Palace, 51 Buckingham Gate is as family-friendly as it gets while staying in the capital. A suite-only property, 51 Buckingham Gate offers one, two and three bedroom suites that all come with roomy kitchens (which come with a stocked fridge and much appreciated dishwasher!), large bedrooms and separate living areas – meaning that children can play or watch TV without disturbing anybody else. Rather than a hotel, you really feel as if you have your own London apartment while in town. As well as its perfect location and room layout, 51 Buckingham Gate has teamed up with Hamely’s to create an exclusive family package. On arrival at the hotel children will be delighted to find hampers complete with sweet treats and sweets. If all that sugar gets a bit too much, parents can call a qualified babysitter up to the suite and explore the city on their own or simply indulge in the hotel’s luxurious steam and sauna. Kids will be well looked after: in addition to top babysitters, your package includes a personalised cooking or baking lesson in the suite with a personalised chef’s jacket. If you manage to tear yourself away from the hotel and visit Hamley’s, one of the world’s most famous toy shops, families will benefit from Hamley’s toy hampers, tailor-made tours of the store and discounts.

We would highly recommend timing your holiday to coincide with one of the UK’s most exciting and exclusive summer events. Ampersand can book your arrangements, including hotels, transfers and tickets for you and your family to attend the following events (we do recommend planning ahead, as these events are extremely popular):

• Queen’s Tennis: 10^th June to 16^th June 2013
• Wimbledon: 24^th June 7^th July 2013
• Ascot: 18^th June to 22^nd June 2013
• The Derby at Epsom: 1^st June 2013
• The Last night at The Proms (as well as tickets for all other performances): 12^th July to 7^th September 2013
• The Chelsea Flower Show: 21^st to 25^th May 2013
• Cartier Polo (upon request): 21^st May to 16^th June 2013
• Henley Regatta: 3^rd to 6^th July 2013
• The Grand National: 4^th and 6^th April 2013
• The British Grand Prix: 5^th July and 7^th July 2013
• FA Cup Final: 11^th May 2013
• Goodwood Revival: 13^th to 15^th September 2013

For more information, please contact Ellie Boulstridge on +44(0)20 7289 6100 or email ellie@ampersandtravel.com to start planning your own tailor-made UK family holiday, or browse our suggested UK & Ireland tours.

David Collins’ London

David Collins, world-class interior architect, is responsible for some of London’s most beautiful spaces. From hotel restaurants and bars to signature suites and even entire properties, Dublin-born London-based Collins has worked his magic touch on some of the best names in the business. His creations combine ‘British style with Hollywood glamour’ and are always noteworthy for their elegance,  luxury and incredible attention to detail. In any Collins design you can count on finding petits objets, art work and furniture that have been sourced from different time periods, countries and styles. Although all unique and perfectly conceived for their own purposes, a Collins space is nearly always recognisable for its beauty, taste, understated glamour and that certain je ne sais quoi…

In no particular order let Ampersand Travel take you on a tour of David Collins’ London…

1. The Apartment, The Connaught

One of London’s finest penthouse suites, The Apartment feels more home-away-from-home than luxury hotel. Beautifully decorated in a rainbow of elegant blue hues, crisp whites and rich creams, this luxurious living space has everything you could wish for from expansive walk-in wardrobes, white marble fireplaces, shelves lined a selection of the best books on art and culture and a private balcony overlooking your Mayfair surroundings.

2. The Bassoon Bar, Corinthia Hotel

Transporting you back to a Fitzgeraldian age of Art Deco glamour, jazz and cocktails, Corinthia London’s Bassoon Bar is one of London’s most appealing cocktail haunts. Highlights include a seven-metre long grand piano which doubles up as the bar, black leather banquettes and jazzy paintings by a New Orleans artist hung from the walls; and that’s before you start on the cocktail list!

3. Claridge’s Bar, Claridge’s

Often gracing the list of London’s best cocktail bars, Claridge’s Bar is small, sexy and has the smartest crowd. Red leather stools line the bar, intimate alcoves are tucked behind candle-lit fireplaces and fresh flowers adorn most surfaces. Oh, and the cocktails are divine.

4. Massimo Restaurant & Oyster Bar, Corinthia Hotel

A hedonist temple to atmospheric dining at Corinthia Hotel, Massimo Restaurant & Oyster bar is breath-taking. With its striped Corinthian pillars, globe-like chandeliers, Art Deco marble oyster bar and sexy mood lighting, this is a perfect restaurant for a romantic tête-à-tête.

5. The Blue Bar, The Berkeley

Favoured by the rich and famous, The Berkeley hotel’s Blue Bar is one of London’s best kept secrets. Decked out in Collins’ signature blue with cornflower coloured chairs, Lutyens blue marble floors and plastered walls, this pint-size watering-hole has a buzz every night of the week.

6. The Connaught Bar, The Connaught

Inspired by 1920s Cubist art, The Connaught Bar is an award-winning blend of masculine leather sofas and metal studded black tables, high mirrored walls and grey marble floors. Described as serving the best cocktails in the world, a visit to The Connaught Bar is a must for any cocktail connoisseur.

7. The Gilbert Scott Brasserie & Bar, St Pancras Renaissance

Named in honour of the original St Pancras station building, this Marcus Wareing-run French style brasserie and bar work beautifully with the hotel’s authentic Art Deco aesthetics. Indulge on nostalgic British classics in an elegant setting of yellow mirrored walls, classic red leather banquettes, marble pillars and ornate wall fixtures.

8. The Wolseley

A London institution modelled on a turn on the century European Grand Café, The Wolseley is one of the capital’s most beautiful and atmospheric restaurants. Its Japanese-style lacquered screens, Corinthian columns, Byzantine light fittings, glossy marble floors and high domed ceilings combine to dazzling effect.

9. Café Colbert

Newly opened on Sloane Square, Café Colbert serves every meal of the day to a  diverse and dynamic crowd. Playing on the theme of traditional Parisian pavement cafes, you can expect tables dressed in crisp white cloths, monochrome mosaic floors, red leather banquettes and a fabulous collection of vintage French prints and black and white photographs.

10. Brasserie Zédel

A Corbin and King creation like its well-know sister restaurants The Delauney and The Wolseley, Zédel takes its inspiration from Art Deco-era French brasseries and serves incredibly inexpensive brasserie classics like steak hache et frites. Located in the former Atlantic Bar & Grill, with its magnificent high ceilings, Zédel plays homage to a bygone era with majestic marble pillars, brass lights and gold-leaf details.

We hope this has inspired you to do your own David Collins tour of London. Please contact Ellie Boulstridge on +44(0)20 7289 6100 or email ellie@ampersandtravel.com to start planning your tailor-made tour of London or browse our suggested UK & Ireland tours.

Mark’s guide to Indonesia: secrets revealed, opinions voiced & tips divulged

Ampersand’s top sales consultant, Mark Wright, has recently spent two and a half weeks revisiting Indonesia, hopping across the islands of Java, Bali, Sumba, Komodo, Rinca and Flores. His enthusiasm for Indonesia has rubbed off on everyone in the office so we thought we’d sit him down to share his insights and divulge his top tips.

My ideal Indonesian honeymoon…
Even though I travelled alone this time (sob, poor me!), Indonesia struck me as the perfect destination for a romantic trip. Click on the video below to find out why and discover what my dream honeymoon itinerary would entail.

Rediscover Bali – the most famous of Indonesia’s 17 thousand islands…
Bali is a huge island and Seminyak and Legian are located in quite a small and highly populated corner of it. Although lovely, it’s a shame that many people only experience these areas or they get put off visiting Bali, thinking that’s all there is. Unlike 10 years ago, there are now fantastic properties all around the island. Some of our favourites include Alila Villas Soori further up the west coast, Amankila and Alila Manggis on the east coast, Puri Ganesha in the north, Surya Shanti inland in the east and Alila Villas Uluwatu on the southern peninsula. I would love to help change people’s perception of Bali and reveal its hidden gems.

Beyond Bali – other “don’t miss” destinations…
I am also eager to show people what else there is beyond Bali’s shores - after all, Indonesia is the country, not Bali! Flowing from west to east, your first port of call would be the island of Java, home to Indonesia’s capital, Jakarta. Don’t be scared of Jakarta – it’s not the most fascinating city but for 1 or 2 nights it’s a great place to relax after a long flight. Still on Java, continue on to the city of Yogyakarta, which has bustling markets and a fantastic colonial hotel called the Phoenix, and then on to Borobudur, which is the world’s largest Buddhist temple. Flanked by brooding volcanoes, Borobudur has a suitably majestic hotel, Amanjiwo, which is beyond impressive. You can spend 3 or 4 days around here and then do the core of your trip elsewhere for the beach paradise experience that everyone associates with Indonesia, be it Bali, Lombok, Sumba, Komodo, Sulawesi or Raja Ampat. A travel trend that has taken off here in recent years is luxury sailing and Indonesia has some fabulous traditional phinisi sail boats. For Ampersand’s top sailing experiences, read my blog about Komodo Island and the best sail boats in Indonesia.

Hotels – golden oldies vs new openings…
In a place like Bali there are always lots of new hotels opening. While it’s exciting and important to make new discoveries, just because something is new doesn’t mean it’s the best. The Edge, for example, is very new, set in a stunning location and offers everything you could want from a luxury villa, but its elder neighbour, Alila Villas Uluwatu, operates more seamlessly and has had more time to integrate with its surroundings. The best example of a property growing into its surrounding environment is COMO Shambhala. It is set across a giant estate and while other hotel chains would have increased the room capacity, COMO have kept it at a mere 36 rooms. They have allowed the estate’s fauna to grow naturally, which allows guests to take long walks down to the river valley in complete peace. By not maximising capacity and ruining the nature they have kept the estate feel and exclusivity.

* Top tip: Do not rule out a hotel as too expensive just because you know it is the most luxurious option… you may be able to afford it if you choose the right room category! COMO Shambhala’s Garden Room for example is very reasonably priced and you still have all the benefits of the estate and its facilities, including 3 swimming pools, a natural rock climbing wall, world class yoga and pilates classes, and one of the best restaurants on the island, Glow.

Foodie favourites…

* Best all rounder: Puri Ganesha. This boutique hotel is run by Diana von Cranach and her Indonesian husband Gusti, who, along with their three Dalmatian dogs, bring life and soul in abundance to your holiday. Diana designs menus for top restaurants and hotels in Asia and Europe, and is a cookery book author and a leading authority on raw food. Her creations are not just healthy, but visually delightful and divinely delicious. On this trip she prepared a tasting menu for me in their beachside dining cabana consisting of seared kingfish with braised lentils, cucumber, pomegranate and mint salad, and salmon carpaccio with avocado, seaweed, radish & ginger, tamarind and orange dressing. I…was…in…heaven! A few of Gusti’s renowned cocktails topped off a fabulous evening. With just 4 villas, it is perfect if you’re looking for exclusivity and hands-on service. Diana and Gusti are integral to the community and love to help; a memorable moment for me was watching Gusti teach local kids English after school. The energy that he brought to the class and to the kids was touching and engaging. Guests staying here really get a sense of where they are, which is quite unusual for such a luxurious property. Not only do you get the best linens and beds, a private pool, world-class food, loads of private space and your own private villa, but the community comes to you in the most unobtrusive way. It blends unbelievably well.

* Best cookery course: Surya Shanti Villa, Bali. The al fresco kitchen is within the upper garden of Surya Shanti offering 360 degree panoramic views of Mount Agung, paddy fields and the ocean beyond. If that doesn’t inspire you, the fresh local produce and the enthusiastic chef will. You could not think of spending a better 3 hours in Bali.

* Best seafood: Nihiwatu Lodge, Sumba Island. Guests can go fishing and, more often than not, you’re eating seafood that other guests have caught themselves, which builds up the community spirit amongst the guests. You bond over food, talking to the guests across the table who may have caught your dinner that day, and to the chef who will come over for a chat. From start to finish you know exactly where your meal has come from.

* Best Indonesian food: Alila Ubud, Bali. I tried the tasting menu here with my older brother and it was just amazing. It had everything from famous suckling Balinese pork, to the six different ice creams at the end, all homemade by the chef with the element of the flavour in the presentation. It was just beautiful food overlooking a beautiful valley.

There were so many more wonderful experiences – from surfing the private Nihiwatu break to exploring the Prambanan temples outside of Yogyakarta – but we will let you discover the rest for yourselves! To see a selection of photos from my trip, please click here. If you are keen to visit Indonesia call me on +44 (0) 20 7289 6100 or email mark@ampersandtravel.com; I would be happy to share more tips and design a tailor-made journey for you.

Mark Wright
Senior Sales Consultant
Ampersand Travel
www.ampersandtravel.com
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The Oxford Literary Festival 2013

The Oxford Literary Festival commences soon with events running from Saturday March 16^th to Sunday March 24^th 2013. We are excited because elements of the festival will have a distinctly Indian theme this year – from food events with Madhur Jaffrey and Michelin starred Atul Kochhar, to talks looking at the theme of love in Indian poetry, and a closing ceremony at Christ Church’s Great Hall hosted by historian and travel writer William Dalrymple who will talk about Nine Lives: In Search of the Sacred in Modern India, his first travel book in a decade.

For more information on Ampersand’s recommended Oxfordshire hotels or for a tailor-made tour of Oxford and elsewhere in the UK & Ireland, please drop Ellie a line on +44 (0)20 7 289 6100 or email ellie@ampersandtravel.com.